diff --git a/CLAUDE.md b/CLAUDE.md index b864e8a..617494b 100644 --- a/CLAUDE.md +++ b/CLAUDE.md @@ -4,13 +4,13 @@ This file provides guidance to Claude Code (claude.ai/code) when working with co ## Project Overview -Builds is a static site of craft build write-ups: templates, 3D print files and step-by-step guides. There is no build step and no backend. +Kestrel's Builds is a static site of craft build write-ups. Builds vary (foam and printed parts, paint techniques, sewing, electronics), so each one ships a guide plus whatever files that project needs. The index must not promise templates or print files for every build. There is no build step and no backend. **Live URL:** https://builds.kestrelsnest.social ## File Structure -- `index.html` - Site index (HTML/CSS in one file, no JavaScript). One `
  • ` card per build, newest first. +- `index.html` - Site index (HTML/CSS in one file, no JavaScript). One `` card per build, newest first; the newest also has class `first` (full-width card). - `og-image.jpg` - OpenGraph image for the index, 1200 x 630 - `deploy` - Rsync deployment script - `/` - One folder per build, self-contained: `index.html`, `img/`, `dl/` @@ -19,9 +19,10 @@ Builds is a static site of craft build write-ups: templates, 3D print files and ## Conventions - Each build folder is self-contained and uses relative links, so it works at any path. -- Build pages and the index share a look: Bricolage Grotesque for headings, Inter for text, the same green accent and neutral tokens, light and dark via `prefers-color-scheme`. +- The index is a sister page to Kestrel's Hall (gamehall.kestrelsnest.social): the same dark ink / bone / gold tokens, the same serif stack, the same card and section structure. Keep them in step. +- Every build page links back to the index with `` at its top and bottom (`.home` in `greenman/index.html`). - Downloads live in `/dl/`. Zip files there are part of the site, so `*.zip` is deliberately NOT in `.gitignore`. -- `greenman/index.html` is generated from the mask kit's own source (not in this repo). Hand edits to it are lost when the kit is regenerated; change the source and re-copy. +- `greenman/index.html` is generated from the mask kit's own source (not in this repo). Hand edits to it are lost when the kit is regenerated; change the source and re-copy, then re-add the two `.home` back links and their CSS. ## Adding a build diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index 058cda1..6e2a9aa 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ -# Builds +# Kestrel's Builds -Write-ups of things I've made, each with its templates, print files and a step-by-step guide. +Write-ups of things I've made, each with a guide and whatever files that project needs. **Live:** https://builds.kestrelsnest.social @@ -21,8 +21,9 @@ greenman/ - Green Man mask ## Adding a build 1. Make a folder for it, named in lowercase with no spaces (`greenman`, `atompunk`). Put its page at `/index.html`, with its images and downloads inside the folder so its links stay relative. -2. In the top-level `index.html`, copy a `
  • ` block to the top of the list and change the link, image, alt text, title, description and tags. The card image is cropped to 4:3, biased toward the top of the photo. -3. Run `./deploy -n` to check what will be uploaded, then `./deploy`. +2. In the top-level `index.html`, copy an `` card to the top of the list and change the link, image, alt text, title and the three lines of text. The newest build carries the extra class `first`, which gives it the full-width card; take `first` off the one it replaces. Card images are cropped to fit, so set `object-position` for the new image as `.greenman` does. +3. Give the new build's page a link back to the index, as `greenman/index.html` has at its top and bottom: `← Kestrel's Builds`. +4. Run `./deploy -n` to check what will be uploaded, then `./deploy`. ## Local preview diff --git a/greenman/index.html b/greenman/index.html index 5a6e2ca..bc3d956 100644 --- a/greenman/index.html +++ b/greenman/index.html @@ -63,11 +63,13 @@ table.dense { font-size: 0.8rem; min-width: 760px; } .dl .dlbtn b { font-family: var(--display); font-size: 1.05rem; } .dl .dlbtn span { font-size: 0.82rem; color: var(--muted); } #dl-status { font-size: 0.88rem; color: var(--muted); min-height: 1.4em; } @media (max-width: 760px) { .cover, .cols, .step, .stage { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); } .cover-photo { max-width: 360px; } .leafstrip { grid-template-columns: repeat(5, minmax(0, 1fr)); } } +.home { margin: 0 0 24px; font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: 600; } .home a { text-decoration: none; } .home a:hover, .home a:focus-visible { text-decoration: underline; } +.home.foot { margin: 48px 0 0; padding-top: 18px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); } -

    Build guide

    Green Man mask

    +

    ← Kestrel’s Builds

    Build guide

    Green Man mask

    A half-mask of oak leaves, acorns and bark, built for people who wear glasses. The structure is EVA foam with a handful of 3D-printed details, and your glasses go on over it.

    Hands-on time
    about 8 hours over 3 evenings
    Printing
    16 small parts, printed unattended
    Foam
    1 base, 27 leaves
    Skills
    craft knife, heat gun, contact cement
    @@ -94,7 +96,7 @@ table.dense { font-size: 0.8rem; min-width: 760px; }
    Application
    brushed, apart from the sealer and optional varnish
    Finish by
    the evening before you wear it
    Finished and worn.
    Finished and worn.

    Paints and brushes

    PaintAmountNotes
    Plasti Dip spray, black or grey1 canSealer. Flexible, so it does not crack when leaves bend.
    Dark greenmost usedPhthalo, Hooker’s or forest green. Base for all leaves, tendrils and foam.
    Mid greenSap green or similar. The main leaf colour.
    Yellow-greena littleMid green plus yellow. Leaf highlights.
    Dark brown (burnt umber)Base for bark and acorns, and thinned for the wash.
    Warm browna littleBurnt or raw sienna.
    Tan or old golda littleRidge tops and acorn caps.
    Gloss varnish or clear nail polisha few dropsAcorn nuts.
    Matte spray varnishoptionalProtects the finish.

    Brushes. A 12 mm flat for base coats, an old stiff 8 mm flat for all the dry-brushing, a 4 mm round for the wash and the gloss. Paper towels, a water cup, a damp rag, a drop of dish soap for the wash, painter’s tape. Ordinary craft acrylics are fine.

    Why this order

    • Sealer goes on first. Paint soaks into bare foam and flakes off bare PLA.
    • Dark base coats come before anything light, since dry-brushing only shows over a darker colour.
    • Highlights go on before the wash. If a highlight came out too strong, the wash softens it.
    • The tall centre leaves get one more highlight after the wash, because the wash flattens them most.
    • Gloss is the last thing on, as either the wash or a matte varnish would dull it.
    -

    One medium leaf through five of the stages:

    Sealed
    Base
    Mid-tone
    Highlight
    Wash

    Every surface, every stage

    Tick down each column as you finish a stage. If a row has an entry in the column, that surface gets paint in that stage.

    Surface1 Seal2 Base3 Mid-tone4 Highlight5 Bark6 Wash7 After
    Crown, large leaves (7 large leaves)✓dark green1 light passveins, notchestop lobes of the 3 centre leaves
    Crown front row (6 medium leaves)✓dark green2 to 3 passesedges, veinsveins, notches, overlaps
    Cheek leaves (2 medium leaves, 4 small leaves) and nose leaf✓dark green2 to 3 passesedges, veinsveins, notches
    Tip leaves (4)✓dark green2 to 3 passestipslight
    Tendrils (4)✓dark greentops onlythe curlinside the curl
    Leaf backs that show from the side✓dark green1 light passlight
    Foam base: band edges, cheek tabs, nose strip✓dark greenall over; leave it dark
    Brow strip✓dark brownwarm brown, then gold on ridge topsevery groove; wipe ridges fast
    Bark knot✓dark brownwarm brown, then gold on ringsbetween ringsgloss dot in the eye
    Twigs (2)✓dark brownwarm brown on toplight
    Acorn nuts (8)✓dark brownwarm brownat the cap linegloss
    Acorn caps (8)✓dark browngold across the scalesbetween scalesstay matte
    Elastic where it shows✓dark brown

    Stages

    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    1

    Seal

    60 min with waits · Plasti Dip spray, black or grey
    1. Wrap the part of the strap that goes behind your head in painter’s tape; sealer stiffens elastic. Hang the mask by the strap. Flex apart any two leaves that touch face to face.
    2. Three mist coats from about 30 cm. Each coat is five short passes: from below looking up into the crown, from above, from the left, from the right, and from behind for the backs of the large leaves. The straight-on front view covers first and matters least. The skin side of the base gets whatever lands on it and is not painted.
    3. If a surface looks wet you are too close. Wet sealer runs into the overlaps and glues neighbouring leaves into a web.
    4. Wait 10 to 15 minutes between coats, and each time run a finger between leaves that sit close together to break any bridge.
    5. After the third coat wait 30 minutes. Bare foam still showing in the deepest pockets is fine: the wash will sit there.
    Done when Foam, PLA and elastic are one even matte colour and every leaf still moves separately.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    2

    Base coats

    40 min · Dark green, dark brown; flat 12 mm brush
    1. Dark green on every leaf, front and back, on the tendrils and tip leaves, and on all foam you can see: the edges of the band, the cheek tabs, the nose strip.
    2. Dark brown on the brow strip, the knot, the twigs, every acorn (nut and cap), and the elastic where it shows at the temples.
    3. Thin the paint a little so it flows, and push the brush under every leaf edge. Two thin coats beat one thick one.
    4. It can be sloppy, since five more stages go over it.
    Done when Nothing sealer-coloured shows from any angle you would be seen from. Everything will look flat and dull at this point.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    3

    Leaves: mid-tone

    30 min · Mid green; old stiff 8 mm flat brush, paper towel
    1. Dry-brush. Load the brush, wipe nearly all the paint off on a paper towel, then drag it lightly across the surface so only the raised parts catch colour. Test on the towel: a stroke should leave almost nothing.
    2. Brush from stem toward tip on the face of every leaf.
    3. Large leaves: one light pass. Front row, cheek leaves, nose leaf and tip leaves: two or three passes. That difference gives the crown its depth.
    4. One light pass along the top of each tendril, and on leaf backs wherever they show from the side.
    Done when Leaves are clearly green with dark veins. The front row is visibly lighter than the large leaves behind it.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    4

    Leaves: highlights

    15 min · Yellow-green; the same brush, drier still
    1. Forward leaves only: front row, cheek leaves, nose leaf, tip leaves, and the curl of each tendril.
    2. Drag the nearly dry brush across the lobe tips and along the vein ridges. It should come out streaky, the way light catches a real leaf.
    3. Leave the large leaves alone for now. They get their highlight after the wash.
    4. Stop early. If a leaf looks striped there was too much paint on the brush.
    Done when From across the room the front row stands out from the large leaves.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    5

    Bark and acorns

    20 min · Warm brown, tan or old gold; the dry-brushing brush, rinsed
    1. Warm brown dry-brushed over the brow strip, the rings of the knot, the tops of the twigs and the acorn nuts.
    2. Tan or old gold, drier, on the very tops of the strip’s ridges and knobs, the knot’s rings, and across the acorn caps so it catches each scale.
    3. No other step changes the mask as much. The strip stops looking like painted plastic and starts to look carved.
    Done when The strip and knot are the first thing your eye goes to.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    6

    Dark wash

    30 min · Burnt umber thinned 1:4 with water, a drop of dish soap; round 4 mm brush, damp rag
    1. Flood the wash into every low place: leaf veins and the notches between lobes, under every overlap, the grooves of the strip, around the knot, between acorn scales, where stems meet the band.
    2. Within a minute, wipe the raised surfaces with the damp rag so the brown stays only in the low places.
    3. On the strip, wipe the ridge tops promptly to keep the gold. On the foam base and deep under the crown, leave it; those should go dark.
    4. Do the whole mask in one session so it dries evenly. It looks too contrasty while wet, though it settles as it dries.
    Done when Every vein and groove is dark, every raised surface still shows its colour.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    7

    After the wash

    15 min, then overnight · Yellow-green, gloss varnish or clear nail polish
    1. Re-highlight the tall leaves. The wash dulls the large leaves more than the rest. Once it is dry, dry-brush yellow-green down the midrib and across the top lobes of the three centre large leaves. Top halves only.
    2. Optional, and it must come before the gloss: one light coat of matte spray varnish over the whole mask, to protect the dry-brushing from a hood or scarf. Let it dry.
    3. Gloss, brushed on last, on the acorn nuts and a dot in the eye of the knot. Caps stay matte.
    4. Hang by the strap overnight somewhere warm with moving air. Do not lay it down, because leaves set in whatever shape they rest in.
    Done when Next morning a finger pressed on a hidden spot lifts no paint.

    If something is off

    ProblemFix
    Leaves stuck together after sealingSlide a blade between them now. After paint it tears.
    Dry-brush went on solidToo much paint. Let it dry, dry-brush the base colour back over it, try again with a drier brush.
    Wash dried on a raised surfaceScrub with a damp brush within the hour, or dry-brush that surface’s colour back over it.
    The whole thing looks flatMore contrast between rows: another pass of highlight on the front row only.
    Paint still tacky in the morningThick sealer underneath. An hour in front of a fan before wearing.
    +

    One medium leaf through five of the stages:

    Sealed
    Base
    Mid-tone
    Highlight
    Wash

    Every surface, every stage

    Tick down each column as you finish a stage. If a row has an entry in the column, that surface gets paint in that stage.

    Surface1 Seal2 Base3 Mid-tone4 Highlight5 Bark6 Wash7 After
    Crown, large leaves (7 large leaves)✓dark green1 light passveins, notchestop lobes of the 3 centre leaves
    Crown front row (6 medium leaves)✓dark green2 to 3 passesedges, veinsveins, notches, overlaps
    Cheek leaves (2 medium leaves, 4 small leaves) and nose leaf✓dark green2 to 3 passesedges, veinsveins, notches
    Tip leaves (4)✓dark green2 to 3 passestipslight
    Tendrils (4)✓dark greentops onlythe curlinside the curl
    Leaf backs that show from the side✓dark green1 light passlight
    Foam base: band edges, cheek tabs, nose strip✓dark greenall over; leave it dark
    Brow strip✓dark brownwarm brown, then gold on ridge topsevery groove; wipe ridges fast
    Bark knot✓dark brownwarm brown, then gold on ringsbetween ringsgloss dot in the eye
    Twigs (2)✓dark brownwarm brown on toplight
    Acorn nuts (8)✓dark brownwarm brownat the cap linegloss
    Acorn caps (8)✓dark browngold across the scalesbetween scalesstay matte
    Elastic where it shows✓dark brown

    Stages

    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    1

    Seal

    60 min with waits · Plasti Dip spray, black or grey
    1. Wrap the part of the strap that goes behind your head in painter’s tape; sealer stiffens elastic. Hang the mask by the strap. Flex apart any two leaves that touch face to face.
    2. Three mist coats from about 30 cm. Each coat is five short passes: from below looking up into the crown, from above, from the left, from the right, and from behind for the backs of the large leaves. The straight-on front view covers first and matters least. The skin side of the base gets whatever lands on it and is not painted.
    3. If a surface looks wet you are too close. Wet sealer runs into the overlaps and glues neighbouring leaves into a web.
    4. Wait 10 to 15 minutes between coats, and each time run a finger between leaves that sit close together to break any bridge.
    5. After the third coat wait 30 minutes. Bare foam still showing in the deepest pockets is fine: the wash will sit there.
    Done when Foam, PLA and elastic are one even matte colour and every leaf still moves separately.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    2

    Base coats

    40 min · Dark green, dark brown; flat 12 mm brush
    1. Dark green on every leaf, front and back, on the tendrils and tip leaves, and on all foam you can see: the edges of the band, the cheek tabs, the nose strip.
    2. Dark brown on the brow strip, the knot, the twigs, every acorn (nut and cap), and the elastic where it shows at the temples.
    3. Thin the paint a little so it flows, and push the brush under every leaf edge. Two thin coats beat one thick one.
    4. It can be sloppy, since five more stages go over it.
    Done when Nothing sealer-coloured shows from any angle you would be seen from. Everything will look flat and dull at this point.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    3

    Leaves: mid-tone

    30 min · Mid green; old stiff 8 mm flat brush, paper towel
    1. Dry-brush. Load the brush, wipe nearly all the paint off on a paper towel, then drag it lightly across the surface so only the raised parts catch colour. Test on the towel: a stroke should leave almost nothing.
    2. Brush from stem toward tip on the face of every leaf.
    3. Large leaves: one light pass. Front row, cheek leaves, nose leaf and tip leaves: two or three passes. That difference gives the crown its depth.
    4. One light pass along the top of each tendril, and on leaf backs wherever they show from the side.
    Done when Leaves are clearly green with dark veins. The front row is visibly lighter than the large leaves behind it.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    4

    Leaves: highlights

    15 min · Yellow-green; the same brush, drier still
    1. Forward leaves only: front row, cheek leaves, nose leaf, tip leaves, and the curl of each tendril.
    2. Drag the nearly dry brush across the lobe tips and along the vein ridges. It should come out streaky, the way light catches a real leaf.
    3. Leave the large leaves alone for now. They get their highlight after the wash.
    4. Stop early. If a leaf looks striped there was too much paint on the brush.
    Done when From across the room the front row stands out from the large leaves.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    5

    Bark and acorns

    20 min · Warm brown, tan or old gold; the dry-brushing brush, rinsed
    1. Warm brown dry-brushed over the brow strip, the rings of the knot, the tops of the twigs and the acorn nuts.
    2. Tan or old gold, drier, on the very tops of the strip’s ridges and knobs, the knot’s rings, and across the acorn caps so it catches each scale.
    3. No other step changes the mask as much. The strip stops looking like painted plastic and starts to look carved.
    Done when The strip and knot are the first thing your eye goes to.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    6

    Dark wash

    30 min · Burnt umber thinned 1:4 with water, a drop of dish soap; round 4 mm brush, damp rag
    1. Flood the wash into every low place: leaf veins and the notches between lobes, under every overlap, the grooves of the strip, around the knot, between acorn scales, where stems meet the band.
    2. Within a minute, wipe the raised surfaces with the damp rag so the brown stays only in the low places.
    3. On the strip, wipe the ridge tops promptly to keep the gold. On the foam base and deep under the crown, leave it; those should go dark.
    4. Do the whole mask in one session so it dries evenly. It looks too contrasty while wet, though it settles as it dries.
    Done when Every vein and groove is dark, every raised surface still shows its colour.
    What this stage should look like, as a diagram.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    The mask at the end of this stage.
    7

    After the wash

    15 min, then overnight · Yellow-green, gloss varnish or clear nail polish
    1. Re-highlight the tall leaves. The wash dulls the large leaves more than the rest. Once it is dry, dry-brush yellow-green down the midrib and across the top lobes of the three centre large leaves. Top halves only.
    2. Optional, and it must come before the gloss: one light coat of matte spray varnish over the whole mask, to protect the dry-brushing from a hood or scarf. Let it dry.
    3. Gloss, brushed on last, on the acorn nuts and a dot in the eye of the knot. Caps stay matte.
    4. Hang by the strap overnight somewhere warm with moving air. Do not lay it down, because leaves set in whatever shape they rest in.
    Done when Next morning a finger pressed on a hidden spot lifts no paint.

    If something is off

    ProblemFix
    Leaves stuck together after sealingSlide a blade between them now. After paint it tears.
    Dry-brush went on solidToo much paint. Let it dry, dry-brush the base colour back over it, try again with a drier brush.
    Wash dried on a raised surfaceScrub with a damp brush within the hour, or dry-brush that surface’s colour back over it.
    The whole thing looks flatMore contrast between rows: another pass of highlight on the front row only.
    Paint still tacky in the morningThick sealer underneath. An hour in front of a fan before wearing.

    ← All builds at Kestrel’s Builds

    diff --git a/index.html b/index.html index 74eb7c6..324bbc8 100644 --- a/index.html +++ b/index.html @@ -1,82 +1,137 @@ - + - - -Kestrel's Nest Builds - - - - - - - + + +Kestrel's Builds + + - - + + + + + + - - - - -
    -
    -

    Kestrel's Nest

    -

    Builds

    -

    Things I've made from foam, filament and paint, written up so you can make them too. Each build comes with its templates, print files and a step-by-step guide.

    +
    +

    Kestrel's Builds

    +

    Things I've made, written up so you can make them too. The builds vary. One might be foam and printed parts, another a paint technique, a sewing project or some electronics. Each comes with whatever it takes to finish the project, and all of it is free to download.

    -
    - +
    + + +
    A Green Man half-mask worn with glasses and a green knitted hood: a crown of painted oak leaves above a bark brow ridge, acorns at the temples and a single leaf over the nose.
    +
    +

    Green Man mask

    +

    A half-mask of oak leaves, acorns and bark, built to be worn with glasses.

    +

    EVA foam and a few 3D-printed parts, about 8 hours over three evenings

    +

    Templates, print files, a build guide and a painting guide

    +
    +
    +
    +
    +

    What comes with a build

    +
      +
    • A guide that takes the work in the order it has to happen, with drawings or photos along the way.
      • +
    • A list of materials and tools, so you know what to gather before you start.
      • +
    • Whatever files the project calls for. That could be full-size templates, a sewing pattern, print files, a wiring diagram or code. Some builds need none.
      • +
    +
    +
    +

    Who makes these

    +

    I am Eric, and I make these at a workbench in Athens, Georgia. Each one is something I built and wore or used first. The write-up came afterwards, once I knew what worked.

    +

    I also keep a hall of free board games at Kestrel's Hall, and I roost at blog.kestrelsnest.social.

    +

    Tip jar

    +

    The builds are free and will stay free. Materials and filament do add up, though, and anyone who wants to chip in toward them can do so at ko-fi.com/kestrelsnest. Chipping in unlocks nothing, and every build is the same for everyone.

    +
    +
    +